Posts Tagged ‘Geneva’

Swiss Riviera GF Travel Guide, Part III, The Food

Tuesday, November 13th, 2012


With the recent bout of bad weather we experience here in New York City (and the Northeast and Mid-Atlantic for that matter) coupled with an extremely busy work schedule have prevented me from updating as often as I would have liked.  I am pleased that I have now finished the third and final installment to my Gluten-Free Swiss Riviera Guide which spotlights some of my new food finds in Montreux and Geneva from my September trip.

First off, I have been visiting this region at least once a year now for the previous few years.  The increase in awareness for Celiac disease in just a few short years has truly amazed me.  My earlier visits, while wonderful, required far more effort on my part to ensure that I would not have any issues when dining out.  Even then, I was still met on occasion by people who just could not grasp why I needed to eat a certain way – nor was it easy to get to the bottom of potential ingredients that could cause a problem – and I speak fluent French, German, and Italian – so communication was not the problem – education  on Celiac was.

Fast forward just a few years and dining out has truly become a dream – quite literally a dream.  So, you are likely wondering what’s good gluten-free  on the shores of Lac Leman?
Montreux

Fairmont Le Montreux Palace, Le Palmeraie
Grand-Rue, 100

Quite possibly the most decadent gluten-free full-breakfast you will ever come across.  Le Palmeraie is the glass-enclosed breakfast room that looks out over the Grand Rue and Lake Leman.  It is truly THE place for a fabulous breakfast in Montreux.  While rooms at the Palace are pricey they are worth every penny and if you can get a rate that include breakfast – jump on it – it is well worth the added expense vs. having to pay separately for breakfast.

My first morning I was presented with a silver tray laden with a selection of gluten-free breakfast items.  Cereals, bread, cookies – you name it, it was on there.  But as past experience demonstrated, the pièce de résistance is not on the tray.  What might that be you ask?  Well, it is the famed gluten-free croissants that I quite literally dream about.  Both plain and chocolate varieties are on hand.  There is also a selection of gluten –free bread and rolls that are available as well.

The “normal” part of the full-breakfast is an impressive host of items both hot and cold, sweet and savory that also includes some naturally gluten-free items as well.  There is also a made-to-order station where omelets and eggs are available.  This is the first proper breakfast that likely has just as much for gluten-free diners as it does for those with no restrictions.

 

Fairmont Le Montreux Palace, Harry’s New York Bar
Grand-Rue, 100

This is my all-time go-to place when in Montreux.  If I am not there at least once an evening I am there twice.  Now, hands down the bartenders mix the best cocktails in town but Harry’s also serves a full menu ranging from snack-type nibbles to proper dinners.  As it is part of the Palace (though you must enter from outside the hotel) it offers the Fairmont Lifestyle Cuisine Plus menu which I talked about last year on MSBNC.com.  This menu is available at all Fairmonts around the globe and caters to a range of dietary restrictions such as gluten-free, vegan, diabetic, etc.

Unfortunately, in my experience, the gluten-free options often contain wither fish or shellfish which I am hyper-allergic to.  But fear not, each restaurant can work with you to ensure that your meal will be safe given your needs.  I had two meals this time around and both were amazing.

The real standout though was when I was presented with a WARM bread basket filled with assorted gluten-free rolls.  As they know me there, I didn’t even need to ask for the special menu or the bread – they simply remember and spring into action.  More importantly they will answer any question you might have and go to the kitchen to speak with the chefs to ensure that you can dine without worry – even offering up recommendations.

 

Le Palais Oriental
Middle Eastern(Iranian/Lebanese/Indian)
Quai E. Ansermet, 6

You cannot miss the building that houses the restaurant that boast a bit of Near East architecture on the outside and impressively detailed touches inside.  It truly feels like you are nowhere near the shores of Lake Leman despite the impressive views the locale affords.

Some people say that service here is a bit cold or standoffish but I have always found service to be efficient and attentive which makes me a happy camper.  Don’t be put-off if you receive a somewhat cold reception, it will get warmer (slightly).

The food here definitely makes up for any service inconsistencies offering a delicious sampling of authentic  regional dishes – many of which just happen to be gluten-free by nature.  I opted for a mixed salad, which was quite impressive and delicious with a simple vinaigrette dressing as my starter.  For my main course I went with the chicken kebab that was beautifully presented and equally as delicious.  The meat was so flavorful, tender, and moist.  It was served with a range of condiments and sauces and a side of light and airy basmati rice.

 

Some other Montreux favorites include:

La Terrasse
Rue du Theatre, 11 in the Eden Palace au Lac Hotel (Really along the Quai E. Ansermet facing the Lake)
Idyllic al fresco dining along the shore of the Lake.  Lovely ambience, good service and food.  Service staff understood food restrictions.  No gluten-free menu but a range of menu items either gluten-fre eor made to order gluten-free.  Perfect to be seated just before sundown and enjoy the show.

Le Museum
Rue de la Gare, 40
Just as the name states this is a fondue (meat and cheese varieties) located in the very cool cellar of the Montreux Museum.  The gratin potatoes are NOT to be missed.  Traditional Swiss fondue at its finest.  Excellent food and service in a unique atmosphere.

Restaurant 45
Avenue des Alpes 45 in the Grand Hotel Suisse-Majestic
This is a relative newcomer that offers an eclectic menu and, wait for it, gluten-free rolls (that appeared after I went though my Celiac and food allergy spiel).  Features a large terrace with panoramic views of the Lake.  Excellent food and service.

Au Parc
Grand Rue, 38
Street-level terrace if you prefer outside but in busy location.  Good Italian that was able to meet my needs.  Very good mushroom risotto.  Service spotty.

 

Geneva/Genf/Genève

Le Grand Quai
Quai Général-Guisan, 34 in the Swissôtel Metropole

Only had one night in Geneva this trip so had to make it count.  This was a true delight and fantastic culinary experience.  My food restrictions were addressed wonderfully by our extremely attentive server who ensured that we were so very well taken care of.  While not formal gluten-free menu my server consulted with the chef to find what would work and what would not – though “no” was never uttered and it was all about what they could do for me.  It was a lovely feeling.

The food was amazing – something I do not often say.  Traditional favorites such as a Salad Caprese which was served three ways: frozen; soup, and multicolored tomato tower.  My main course of roast chicken paired with chanterelles was delicious and dessert of a raspberry jelly atop a bed or meringue push me right into food coma territory.  While the décor in the dining room is lovely, we chose to eat outside to enjoy the warm evening.

 

Urban Bio
Rue des Alpes, 19
Gluten-Free Market

A gem of a market that while not exclusively gluten-free has an incredible variety of gluten-free goods.  Everything from croissants to snacks to breads is on hand and the prices are actually pretty decent (remember this is Geneva though).  Definitely worth a visit if nothing else than to pick-up a few nibbles for your hotel room.

Swiss Riviera GF Travel Guide, Part II, The Hotels

Thursday, October 18th, 2012

Part II of my Gluten-Free Guide to the Swiss Riviera focuses on the hotels during my stay. There are two hotels on this trip as we decided to spend some time in Geneva before returning home.

This trip we of course stayed at one of our favorite hotels in the world, Fairmont’s Le Montreux Palace. Our home away from home in Geneva was the Swissôtel Metropole — a sibling within the Fairmont group.

Both hotels did not disappoint and full reviews of the hotels can be found in my TripAdvisor reviews. Simply click on a link below to read more:

Fairmont Le Montreux Palace

 

Swissotel Metropole Geneva

Stay tuned for the final part of the guide which will feature what is, in my opinion, the most important part — the food.  In particular, you’ll learn how these hotels handle celiac and food allergic travelers needs.  Here’s a hint…pretty darn good.

Keep reading for the first part of the guide that takes you on-board SWISS International Airlines trans-Atlantic business class gluten-free service.

Swiss Riviera GF Travel Guide, Part I, The Flights

Tuesday, October 2nd, 2012

My annual trip to Montreux and Geneva, while always wonderful, someone exceeded all of my expectations this trip.  Perhaps it was because we mixed it up a bit this time trying a new airline on this particular route; tried a new hotel in Geneva; and visited some new locales on this trip.  As always, the focus was on traveling gluten-free from a luxury p.o.v.

I decided to keep the same format as I did with my Lima, Peru GF travel guide from my trip earlier this year and divide the guide into three main parts:

Part I: The Flights
Part II: The Hotels
Part III: The Food

So fasten, your seatbelts.  Make sure those seats are in the full upright and locked position and join me as we visit the Gluten-Free Swiss Riviera.

Part I: The Flights

We typically fly United (when it was Continental) on the New York to Geneva (GVA) nonstop run out of Newark Liberty.  However, this time we decided to try SWISS International Airlines JFK to GVA because the timing worked out to be much more agreeable and I, ever the aviation geek, wanted to try out the new SWISS business class on their A330-300 aircraft.

As always, I am warning you that this is a pretty comprehensive report on the flights as I am also sharing with some travel boards I frequent where like-minded travel enthusiasts congregate to read exactly these types of in-depth travelogues.  So here we go…

Check-in at JFK was extremely painless.  We had already pre-checked-in online prior to arriving at the airport so already had our boarding passes.  SWISS Business had two dedicated check-in lanes and the entire process took five minutes at the most.  All of our checked bags were priority tagged and then taken by a porter to the TSA bag drop.

The SWISS Business lounge, like many in Terminal 4, is pre-security which I always find strange but this is just something to keep in mind because even with a separate line for Business/First at the security checkpoint, it basically still requires a bit of queuing to get through screening.

The lounge itself is divided into two sections: First and Business.  The business section is the larger of the two and is actually quite nicely designed albeit if it did feel a bit crowded when we first arrived – though finding a comfortable place to sit was not a problem.

There are two self-serve bars with an okay range of spirits and wines – though nothing quite earth shattering.  There is also a selection of nibbles on hand (hot and cold) and as our flight was leaving around dinnertime there were a few more substantial choices on hand.  Most of the items were off limits to me as a food allergic traveler but I always prefer liquid nourishment over food at a lounge so was fine with a couple of glasses of red wine (the vodka selection left a bit to be desired).  My partner did sample a few of the items on-hand and said they were pretty meh.  It is just a lounge and we are not talking about full pre-flight dining as offered by other airlines – this was really just nibbles which was fine.

The lounge does afford a great view of the tarmac so I was a happy camper watching all the flight movements taking place – which was quite a bit given the time of day.

We eventually made our way to security and were through in about 15 minutes or so.  As mentioned earlier the lounge is pre-security so give yourself a bit of extra time.  The Business/First lane basically feeds into the main line closer to the actual checkpoint so there will be a bit of wait time regardless.

LX 23
JFK-GVA
A330-300
Seats: 10K and 11K (SWISS Business)

Boarding was on-time and very orderly.  We were greeted at the aircraft door with a smile and directed to our seats.  I had selected the single K seats for both legs of this trip.  The SWISS Business cabin is pretty much what you would expect from SWISS – clean, well-laid out, and very functional.  The staggered seating is, depending on row, 1-2-1 or 2-2-1 and the single A seats offer even more space on either side than the K seats but the K seats felt far more private.

Already at our seats was an amenity kit, blanket, noise canceling headphones, and pillow.  Being a Celiac traveler, I always confirm that my meal was loaded prior to departure and a very nice flight attendant checked with the galley and confirmed that my meal was in fact on-board.  Coats or jackets were swiftly placed on hangers and stowed in the closet.  While boarding was still taking place we were offered pre-departure drinks (water, orange juice, or champagne) served in proper glasses.  Once boarding was complete the flight attendants took to the aisles and offered a selection of reading materials and distributed menus.  The crew worked like a well-oiled machine and were extremely efficient and welcoming but not overly intrusive.  Meal requests were taking prior to departure.

Once airborne, pre-dinner cocktails were served along with a choice of cashews or chips.  Dinner service started soon thereafter and was served in appetizer/salad, then main course, then cheese and/or dessert order – so not a single tray service but not as drawn out as other airlines as most people just want to sleep anyway.  An expedited single-tray quick option was offered to those who really wanted to maximize their sleep time.  Breakfast was ordered at the same time as dinner and passengers simply checked off the items they wanted for breakfast and whether or not they wanted to be woken 2-hours prior to landing for a full service or opt for an express option 45 minutes prior to landing.

My gluten-free meal consisted of: a cold meat starter and then salad, served with a main course of white fish with mixed vegetables and rice along with two wrapped rice-cakes.  Now, I also happen to be hyper-allergic to shellfish which only manifested itself about 15 years ago after a lifetime of enjoying shellfish without any issues.  Therefore, I tend not to eat any fish because I am fearful the same thing will happen.  As fish is sometimes braised with clam juice or seafood stock, I decided I did not want to take the chance at 35,000 feet so bypassed the main course.  I was not really that hungry and was able to supplement my main with other items so this was not a major issue and something I am completely used to.  After the main course a cheese course and dessert was offered along with a selection of Swiss chocolates and after dinner drinks, coffee, tea, or espresso.

The regular meal service consisted of:

First Course: Seasonal salad with balsamic vinaigrette

Main Course, choice of:
Seared beef filet with red wine demi-glace
Roasted potatoes, buttered broccolini and carrots
or
Chicken Dijon, mushroom sauce
Shallot bread pudding, grilled peppers and zucchini
or
Honey-glazed salmon filet, mustard cream sauce
Horseradish mashed potato, yellow and green beans
or
Smoke mozzarella tortellini with tomato sauce
Olives and pine nuts

Cheese Course: Selection of cheeses

Dessert: Vanilla mousse with Bourbon butter peaches
Crumbled almond biscotti
Swiss Chocolates

Breakfast prior to landing.

 

LX 22
GVA-JFK
A330-300
Seats: 9K and 10K (SWISS Business)

Check in at Geneva was a bit chaotic given a very large party in front of the SWISS Business check-in lines was literally checking at the very least a minimum of 60 pieces of luggage.  I had never seen flatbed trollies being used for transporting piles of baggage within the terminal.  The agents clearly had their hands full with this group so I spied the Web check-in desk a few counters down and headed over there (which is likely where I should have gone originally as I had already pre-checked-in).  A very pleasant agent (who was in clear sight of the large luggage situation) quickly checked us in, priority tagged our bags, and re-printed boarding passes to be sure that the barcodes would work on the fast track security lane.

The priority security lanes are amazing.  Scan your boarding pass, gates open, and you are routed to a truly dedicated lane that took all of two minutes to get through (unlike JFK).  We proceeded to the SWISS Business Lounge which I had actually been to before which is quite nice with plenty of seating, and self-service food and beverages.  My only tiny issue with this lounge is that the restrooms are outside of the lounge and down the hallway – not a major issue but just noting it.

As you need to clear passport control before getting to the gate area, we gave ourselves a bit of extra time to do some last minute duty free shopping and make it to the gate on-time.  We just had a coffee and my partner had a pastry in the lounge.  Once through passport control you must then give your passport to SWISS agents that are behind small stations (grouped Economy, Business, and First) for review and complete an emergency contact form.  There was then some random secondary screening for a few people while the majority of us filed into a rather tight waiting area that eventually became very crowded.  Boarding was a bit delayed but we were soon welcomed aboard by another very nice crew.

We took our seats and I once again asked about my gluten-free meal to which the flight attendant said they had been alerted during their briefing that there was a gluten-free meal in business but she would double-check – very nice follow through indeed – and it was, of course on-board.

Once again all the in-flight amenities were already neatly waiting for us at our seat.  Pre-departure cocktails were offered and menus distributed prior to taxi along with a selection of reading materials.  Departure was swift and we were soon on our way to JFK.

My gluten-free meal on this flight consisted of lunch and pre-arrival snack.  The gluten-free lunch was a cold meat starter complete with Bündnerfleisch and a selection of vegetable sticks and green salad.  The main course was a grilled chicken breast served with carrots, zucchini, broccoli, and spinach.  It was actually all very good but perhaps the piece de résistance was the two slices of gluten-free bread – yes gluten-free bread – that accompanied my meal.  On of the terrific flight attendants even asked if I wanted the bread heated – wow!  The main course was followed by a cheese selection and dessert (mine was fruit salad) that came complete with a freshly made espresso.  The pre-arrival snack was a sliced cold chicken breast with different mixed vegetables.  My fight attendant was more concerned than I was that there was no bread to accompany it – and to be honest I wasn’t expecting it so no biggie there.  While remarkable similar to my main course chicken breast, it did hit the spot and I can safely say that I did not go hungry on this flight.

The regular meal service consisted of:

First Course: Air-dried beef with potato and Trögligen Alpine goats cheese timbale; Smoked tout tartlet with pearl barley salad and vegetables with Horseradish vinaigrette; Seasonal Salad with egg and croutons

Main Course, choice of:
Grilled beef filet with truffle jus
Celeriac pureé, glazed yellow beetroot
or
Chicken breast with almond cranberry crust, port wine jus
Sweet potato and mascarpone pureé, baked apple
or
Filet of sole with Swabian potato dumplings and saffron sauce
Creamed Savoy cabbage, artichokes with olives
or
Pumpkin ravioli with cream sauce, tomato confit

Cheese Course: Selection of cheese from Switzerland and the canton of Solothurn

Dessert: Solothurn hazelnut and almond mousse with raspberry coulis
Fresh fruit salad

The new SWISS Business is the epitome of style with the traditional focus on service excellence.  The crews on both of my flights were both professional but took the time to engage their guests on a more personal level.  Both Maître de Cabine ran extremely efficient ships but they too took time to chat with guests and really made sure that guests were well taken care of.  The new business seats are extremely comfortable, inclusive of massage function, and are proper full-flat beds.  Power and USB connections were available and on-demand IFE was also very good with a range of programming options.

On arrival our we were through immigration, picked up our bags, and cleared customs in 15 minutes tops. The fastest I have ever managed at JFK. Priority tagged bags actually arrived first on the belt in both GVA and JFK which I have found to be hit or miss with other airlines. SWISS service is most definitely consistent on both sides of the Atlantic.

Laboratoire du Fournil, Le Sarissans Organic Chocolate Fondant

Friday, September 28th, 2012

One of the decadent finds on my recent trip to Switzerland was found at an amazing organic market (Urban Bio, 19, Rue des Alpes) that I literally stumbled across while walking around Geneva a day before heading home to the United States.  I typically do a bit of research prior to any trip but as the majority of my trip was in my familiar stomping ground of Montreux, I thought I would wing-it for our final night in Geneva.  I have a few other goodies that I picked-up in Geneva and will be reviewing them soon.  Now on to the chocolate fondant…

This was an amazingly rich and organic tart that was really more like a small round brownie.  It contained just five simple organic ingredients: a buckwheat and rice flour blend; cane sugar, eggs, chocolate, and vegetable oil.  While the ingredients were incredibly simple the cake itself was wonderfully complex.  It had a rich, nutty, chocolate flavor that had only a very subtle sweetness allowing the chocolate to have the spotlight.  It was wonderfully moist but was still dense enough to not be overly fragile – I actually threw this in my carry-on on my way home and it arrived in one piece.

So once again a great gluten-free find popped-up when I wasn’t even looking once again proving that you can get out there and, even without major planning, still navigate successfully as a gluten-free traveler.  If you happen to be in Geneva, definitely stop-by Urban Bio as there gluten-free selection was truly amazing.


Just part of the gluten-free section at Urban Bio.


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